Tommy Hilfiger introduced his $9.3bn model again to New York for the primary time in three years with an autumn present impressed by Andy Warhol that additionally managed to be considered one of style week’s most numerous.
Plus-sized model-of-the-moment Paloma Elsesser and Native American mannequin and activist Quannah Chasinghorse shared a foil-covered catwalk at Brooklyn’s Skyline Drive-In, alongside actor Julia Fox, former editor of Warhol-founded Interview journal, Bob Colacello and about 20 unknown street-cast faces.
As ever with Tommy Hilfiger, the Sunday evening present was as a lot in regards to the vibe as the style. Silver balloons recalling Warhol’s 1966 work Silver Clouds embellished the stage, Hilfiger-branded water cans had been handed out and Girl Bunny, one other Warholian muse, performed Donna Summer season tracks.
The viewers included Kate Moss, two Kardashians and musician Travis Barker, who later stormed the stage in a Hilfiger puffer coat. Everybody watching wore a poncho. Miraculously, not one of many 80 fashions fell within the driving rain.
“I would like issues to be as various and numerous as they probably can,” Hilfiger mentioned earlier than the present. “I obtained that from Andy. I met him within the 80s. He introduced me into the Manufacturing facility and he singlehandedly confirmed me how necessary it was to encompass oneself with popular culture icons, which was very influential in transferring my model ahead.
“He additionally supplied me considered one of his items for a thousand {dollars}, however I couldn’t afford it. Now I’ve a good few.”
The garments themselves had been a lesson in star-spangled preppiness, although it felt extra Imply Women than Love Story, taking the rawest collegiate iconography – varsity prints, cheerleader costumes and logos – and turning them into chunky knits, thick scarves and supersized clothes.
A modernised TH emblem, designed by streetwear illustrator Fergus Purcell, coated outsized puffers. Most fashions wore thick elbow-length gloves and carried tiny luggage or expansive holdalls. Buried throughout the 80 appears to be like was Hilfiger’s collaboration with British designer Richard Quinn, which added a floral romance to tartan checked fits, punky spiked leather-based jackets and but extra puffers.
The affect of Warhol has been well-trodden in style. In 1991, Versace created its well-known neon Pop assortment, splashing clothes with mugshots of Marilyn Monroe and James Dean. In 2011 and 2014, Jeremy Scott borrowed Warholian iconography for his eponymous label and Moschino, respectively.
Warhol’s affect on Hilfiger’s present was comparatively nuanced, specializing in the manufacturing unit component of the present (company had been in a position to watch fashions having their hair and make-up executed), and the best way Warhol and Hilfiger constructed their manufacturers on accessibility and acquainted visible id. Warhol used soup cans and Marilyn Monroe, whereas Hilfiger used stars and stripes. It was additionally in regards to the two males, although, and friendship: “We had been each doing preppy on the identical time – you would say it’s a assembly of preppy minds.”
Chasing the chimera of era Z has been a Hilfiger precedence for the final decade, and Sunday’s present was additionally livestreamed on a Roblox international platform and proven, through avatars, on a digital catwalk.
It was additionally, unusually for style week, available for purchase (most collections present a season upfront). “We’re in New York, we’re within the Manufacturing facility, however we’re additionally within the metaverse,” Hilfiger mentioned. “You gotta maintain it contemporary.”